Pantelleria book project

Dammusu (pant.)

2008-05-16T11:11:00.000+01:00

Dammuso - This unique architectural icon of Pantelleria was probably created in the 10th century A.D. and evolved right up to the 17th century. The large dry-stone walls provide perfect thermal isolation and the thick dome roof has the ideal shape to collect the precious rainwater into an attached cistern. Because of the use of natural stone found on the island, the Dammuso blend in very well in the surrounding landscape. Contrary to the common theory that the structure has it's foundation in the Arab world, recent archaeological research points more towards a Greek origin. Nowadays, a great part of the original Dammusi are in the hands of second home owners, who are using or renting them out as holiday lodges. Consequently, the price of even the most ramshackle Dammuso has rocketed in recent years.

Gheddafi hotel

2008-05-12T09:03:00.000+01:00

Khadafi hotel - Known among locals as 'Khadafi's hotel', the Libyan-owned resort was build in the 1980's but fell foul of a downturn in Italian-Libyan relations. It remains unopened more than twenty years after it was built, buried under an avalanche of arcane building regulations. Rumours of its grand opening continue to resurface from time to time.

Meduse

2008-05-12T08:58:00.001+01:00

Jellyfish - The 'Pelagia noctiluca', commonly known as the 'Mauve stinger', is one of the many different kind of jellyfish world wide, which population has alarmingly developed over the past decades. Here also in Pantelleria, they have become the key issue for whether to go for a swim in the sea or not. Scientists believe that these explosive growths are a clear indication of the our ailing seas. Overfishing, nutrient pollution, global warming and the introduction of non-native species seem to be the causes. These jellyfish stem from the Red sea, but as global warming continues, they can now be found as far north as Northern Ireland, where on November 21, 2007, a one-metre thick by 25square kilometres large swarm of jellyfish wiped out a 100,000-fish salmon farm.

Pietra

2008-05-12T08:48:00.002+01:00

Stone - Stone is to Pantescans as snow is to Eskimos. The islanders have been stacking stones for over 5,000 years and the 'muro alto' or high wall of the Neolithic village near Mursia (picture above) is still a standing witness of their craftsmanship. It's estimated that there are about 8,000km of stone walls on Pantelleria. Logically, the Pantescan dialect holds a wide variety of words for stone. A tartisa for example, is a little stone or a pebble; a ciampeddra a flat stone, used to fill narrow spaces when constructing the vaulted roof of a damuso and also applied in a very popular game for children. A mazzacàni, literally translated as 'dog killer', is round middle sized stone, and a strùmmulu is a irregularly shaped, useless stone. Strangely enough, the Pantescans also imported stone from other islands, like the cantùni, a boulder from Favignana and the balàta di Màuta, a slab of calcareous stone, coming from Malta.

Port of Pantelleria

2008-02-08T11:15:00.000+01:00

Cala Cinque denti

2008-02-02T16:45:00.000+01:00

Five Teeth Bay - A popular spot for expensive yachts to moor in the shelter of this spectacular bay. On the south side it is possible to swim through a natural stone tunnel to reach a small inland sea pool, called Scarpetta di Cenerentola or Cinderella's slipper.

Punta di Nica

2008-02-02T16:42:00.000+01:00

Nica - This minuscule fishing village is located in a lava gorge. Close by, there are thermal springs in the sea, which temperatures can reach almost 100°C. It is also home to a house belonging to Vincenzo Visco, former finance minister of Romani Prodi's two governments. The house fell foul of planning regulations and the owner received punitive fines.

2008-01-02T10:57:00.000+01:00

Varvacani (Pantescan)

2007-11-28T11:15:00.000+01:00

Barbican - The town of Pantelleria's main landmark is the Castello Barbacane. It is probably built over a Byzantine blockhouse and later enlarged, demolished and re-built on a number of occasions. It owes its present 12th century Norman appearance to Frederick II of Swabia, and served as a bastion that defended the port and the town entrance over many centuries. Prior to modern sanitation, the ancient inhabitants of the town used the aria behind the castle as a toilet, leading to the local slang of any dirty or messy place being labelled as varvacani. Nowadays, it forms a more tidy backdrop for wedding photos.

Giardino arabo

2007-11-13T14:45:00.000+01:00

Arab garden - The 'Giardino Arobo' is a stone garden built like a temple, usually circular, designed for citrus plants, such as lemons, limes, mandarins and oranges. It has high walls which crowns are shaped downward towards the centre. This way the threes have utmost exposure of the sun whilst there's still a maximum protection from the wind.

Deep in the woods

2007-11-08T17:31:00.001+01:00

2007-11-08T17:24:00.000+01:00

More dead animals! These remains I found when I was looking for eatable mushrooms.

2007-10-27T19:04:00.000+01:00

One of the great things about Pantelleria, is that obscure twinkle of adventure which is ingrained in daily routine. Yesterday, on an afternoon walk in the Grand Favare, I found this skeleton of a grown-up cow. There aren't many cows on the island. But more surprising is the fact that on this island of 80 square kilometres, and with around 200.000 visitors in the summer, an animal can rot to the bone without anyone noticing it.

San Fortunato

2007-10-20T12:36:00.000+01:00

Senso unico

2007-10-20T12:33:00.000+01:00

Punta di Nicà

2007-10-20T12:27:00.001+01:00

Weird wedding party

2007-10-13T11:28:00.000+01:00

2007-09-26T16:38:00.000+01:00

A few days ago, we had the privilege to witness this spectacular weather phenomenon,... I’m not sure what it was but made a great impression on us all.

2007-08-29T09:56:00.000+01:00

Meanwhile, a little project was made: a book, containing 25 images of the island. Every book is handmade, has its own unique design and is published in a limited edition of 25 signed copies. You can download a low res. pdf by clicking here.

2007-07-31T14:49:00.000+01:00

Yesterday evening, we went to the opening of an exhibition of handbags in the only art gallery of Pantelleria. Valérie, also one of the participants, was wearing for the occasion her beautiful kimono.

2007-07-02T23:14:00.000+01:00

Arco dell'Elefante: according to the legend, the elephant pumps in water from the sea when the island is too dry.

2007-06-30T10:46:00.000+01:00

Crappulla at the Lago Specchio di Venere

2007-06-23T10:36:00.000+01:00

Land, sea and tourist.

2007-06-20T20:50:00.000+01:00

The tourists are here!

2007-06-05T10:55:00.000+01:00

We're back on the island! One of the first things that I witnessed was a pig slaughtering at 6.30h in the morning. It's tradition to do this as early as possible. It wasn't a nice experience; not for me and certainly not for the pig. Un vero momento terribile!
Afterwards, there is the traditional BBQ and drinking (this can go on all day).
Interesting detail: contrary to Belgian custom, the first blood isn't used to make sausages but instead it's used to make 'Sanguinacio': a cake based on chocolate and pig blood (recipe will follow).

This blog is temporarily at rest.

2007-03-12T11:34:00.000+01:00

New post can be expected around the third week of May, when I return from Belgium.

2007-03-01T12:45:00.000+01:00

View from our terrace

2007-02-15T10:34:00.000+01:00

These last weeks have been very particular for the island. Since the 25th of December, people have been starting to celebrate carnival. There are dance gatherings every night (except Monday) and the apotheosis should be sometime next week. The festivities are quite extreme. It's no coincidence that all this partying and heavy drinking happens this time of the year. The population here are by tradition mainly farmers, and during this season, there isn't a great deal to do on the land. Everything happens in the 'Circoli'. These 'circles' are private clubs, which principally all have a long history and are keeping a strong tradition.
I've been photographing in these clubs. Because of the different 'artistic' approach of the subject, I gathered some of the result onto a different web log: http://pantelleriacircoli.blogspot.com/
Like this site, it's a work in progress. Still, feel free to visit and comment!

2007-01-17T19:41:00.000+01:00

Empty harbour.

2007-01-17T14:22:00.000+01:00

Here some landscapes, which I recently recorded.

2007-01-12T22:06:00.000+01:00

The sea,... so many things have already been said and written about the sea. I wont even try to describe its beauty, power or temperament. Let's just say that today, I've got my feet wet whilst taken this picture and that I think that, in my life, I will never again live apart from it.

2007-01-04T18:47:00.000+01:00

Moonrise !

2007-01-02T13:23:00.000+01:00

Playing with nature's bits and pieces. It may sound a bit too idyllic, but it's how our children are spending a lot of their time here. It's remarkable to see how fast they learn to fully value and respect natural phenomenon as flowers, insects, stars and striking landscapes, or even the silence and tranquility of the evening.

2007-01-02T13:18:00.000+01:00

Sometimes, like the day before yesterday, they are also directly confronted with some more vigorous aspects of nature's laws. Sebina, a Sicilian friend who stayed with us a couple of days for the New Year, caught an octopus barehanded. As method of killing the struggling animal, she chose to shred the head half off, and turned it inside out to clean it directly into the sea. This whole process took more than ten minutes and was witnessed by both our kids and a half hysterical Italian tourist from the North who franticly accused Sebina of being irresponsible towards the children. Sebina calmly replied to her, that apparently she was solely used to get her food out of a supermarket. I myself was a bit astonished by the strength of Sebina, and how serenely she handled the screaming woman and simultaneously managed to kill the wrestling creature. I look at her in a different way now. Though, less than two hours later we had a delicious anti pasta.

2006-12-29T09:33:00.000+01:00

2006-12-25T19:38:00.000+01:00

This evening, we once again had one of those perfect moments. Nearby where we live, there is a cave at the seaside with thermal baths, which are large enough to hold the entire family. The water is about exactly the same temperature as an ideal bath at home. When entering the cave, there is a plate praising the therapeutic effects for skin and bones. It also claims that you are actually entering the cave of Calypso, as cited in the Odyssey, on Ulysses' journey. However, this kind of linkage of local sites to well-known mythical scenes is apparently common practice of community tourist offices around the Mediterranean. Therefore, it could well be that there are a dozen other Calypso's caves in the region.

2006-12-25T11:18:00.000+01:00

I just realised that last year, I took a very similar photo as the one below. It's strange how one keeps on being concerned with the same little details.

2006-12-24T15:47:00.000+01:00

Winter at Funta Fram

2006-12-21T16:12:00.000+01:00

On a clear day, we can see Africa whilst sitting at our dining table.

2006-12-19T20:34:00.000+01:00

Here two images that I took last week at Piana di Ghirlanda. The one above shows Monte Gibele. Although it's only the second highest hill on the island (700m), it is in fact the main volcano. Montange Grande, the highest point with 836m above sea level, was actually pushed up at least 275m by Mt. Gibele.

2006-12-18T23:06:00.000+01:00

Throughout the years, Pantelleria has been called many different names: 'Yrnm' - Island of Birds (because of the abundance of game) by the Phoenicians, 'Cossyra' - Smallest (compared to Malta and Sicily) by the Romans, 'Patelareas' - Turtle (because of its shape) by the Byzantines and Bent El-Rhià - Daughter of the Wind (very windy here) by the Arabs. It's clear that 'Pantelleria' must originate from one of these last two ancient names. Up till now I haven't heard any conclusive evidence, which authenticates either one of them. Though, during a hike near the cliffs at Punta Fram, I did discover the head of the turtle.

2006-12-16T16:01:00.000+01:00

Yesterday evening at Cicci's Bar, someone told me that Pantelleria has several large 'rivers'. This sounded to me very unlikely, since the island has no natural sweet water sources of any kind. Clearly my limited knowledge of the Italian language had to be the reason of this misinterpretation.
Still, after some puzzlement, it became clear that they actually do exist, but only after some heavy raining like yesterday. These 'rivers' are actually huge trenches, which form certain patterns that can only be viewed from high up in the sky. Apparently these outlines already exist for hundreds of years and are used as beacons by travelling birds. If they would be altered, thousands of birds would get confused, or even get lost, during their annual crossing. Therefore, these landmarks are highly protected from any interference up to a level that in certain areas, ground works for basic utilities such as electricity and running water, are complex to conduct and as a result haven't been done yet.
The thing what also sounded remarkable to me, is the fact that birds only use these naturally formed patterns as guides, and not for instance streets or buildings.

Does anyone have some more information about this?

2006-12-13T23:40:00.000+01:00

Christmas madness in Rekhale.

2006-12-13T23:11:00.000+01:00

Here three images of the coast in front of Scirafi. We currently rent a small house, almost at the top of the hill in the middle.
- General sites and landscapes
- Scirafi

2006-12-13T23:01:00.000+01:00

Panoramic landscape of characteristic terraces near Piana di Ghirlanda.
Possible context for book:
- Agriculture
- General sites and landscapes
- Piana di Ghirlanda

2006-12-13T22:33:00.000+01:00

A typical scene of how sweet life can be on the island. Valérie and Alinoë are bathing in the Lago di Venere. The water and mud are rich of minerals, which suppose to have therapeutic qualities. The lake also contains some hot springs.
Possible context for book:
- Lago di Venere
- Wellness
- Family life

2006-12-13T16:28:00.000+01:00

Here a view of the valley of Monastero. The photo is taken from the main terrace of an old farmhouse that we love to own one day.
Possible context in book:
- Agriculture
- Geology, main crater
- General sites and landscapes
- Piana di Monastero

2006-12-13T16:03:00.000+01:00

This image reflects kind of the spirit we've been living in during summer.
Possible context in book:
- Bar 'U Friscu'
- Family life